Langtang Village

Aite the good lad arrived at the door at 6.20 am with two steaming mugs of tea. We could really get used to this sort of treatment. I might have to try and persuade him to come back to New Zealand with us!

We ate potato pancakes with honey for breakfast and were on the trail by 8.00 am, climbing gently at first through forest, the big trees draped with mosses. The morning saw us climb high above the Langtang Khola on good track all the way and crossing some fantastic bridges. We had a brief glimpse of snowy peaks ahead, but they remained hidden from full view. We walked slowly for nearly 3 hours, and stopped at Ghodatabela for a very welcome cup of tea and a snack. A great bird spotting site, lovely knitted items for sale and a sweet little stone hut. Rob had another good bird day and even saw a woodpecker at our morning tea stop which was at 2972 metres.

We came upon an army checkpoint where we had a conversation about binoculars with the soldier on duty, before heading into a really beautiful area of meadows – yak pastures – and - surprise surprise - we saw our first yak - with enormous vicious-looking horns. He was quietly grazing right beside the track. Further on Mithu pointed out a wild horse.

The valley widened out and dramatic cliff faces towered above. Lunch was at Thangspa-Thyangsyapu, 3140 metres.We met a couple from Wellington would you believe, Kosta and Gretchen, and the latter knew Sam! 

The trail climbed gently on and up, the scenery beautiful and we could see Langtang Village in the distance. At 3.00 pm we arrived in the village, and ended up staying in Friendly View lodge. The clouds lowered and it was fairly cold, but cosy enough inside. A huge pile of garlic was drying on a balcony outside our room.


But there is no rest for the wicked. After tea and biccies, Mithu and Aite took us on a long walk (!!) up through the beautiful old stone houses of the original Langtang Village, then up through herb fields with wild rhubarb-like plants, orchids, and lots of pretty flowers. The fields were full of stones, no wonder there are so many stone buildings and walls everywhere. Mithu was looking along the cliff faces for animals and the national bird.  We returned after 5.30 pm and the woodburner was lit – I felt bad as there is very little wood for burning, but it was very cold. Aite has very few warm clothes, and both Mithu and Aite just don flimsy plastic capes when it rains.

I smelt kerosene, so that was also being used – which means some poor person had to carry it up to the village.

I could hear a man in the kitchen reciting prayers, and we saw water-operated prayer wheels dotted around the place, and long walls of mani (prayer) stones.









Rob had dal bhat and I had an excellent egg fried rice for dinner. The place was full, we were first fed and first to leave for bed at 8.00 pm. We had the luxury of an electric light so for about the first time on this trip we enjoyed the luxury of a read. We had just got off to sleep when everyone else came noisily to bed!